STEP BY STEP COPPER ETCHED CUFF BRACELET
Using PnP Blue and now StazOn and Rubber Stamps
I will keep updating this step by step as I learn new things and improvements
Get yourself some 18g Copper or an 18g copper blank
sizing is dependant upon your wrist size.
Standard length sizes - 6" for Small 6.5" for Medium and 7" for large
For my sample its 6.5"
My copper blank is 18g 1" wide by 6.5" long
If you cant get locally then Metalliferous in NY has them pre cut and for sale at a very reasonable priceSTEP 2
I want to make the bracelet comfortable and not have sharp corners so I take my metal shears and nip the corners. Since copper is very soft its very easy to cut.
Or you can just file the corners - this is faster - but if you want a deep angle corner its just as easy to cut and file. I did some with cut corners and some with just filing the corners of the copper- you do not have to be exact as you can file to correct an over cut.
With the corners cut I want to smooth them out. I use a large file. You do not have to apply much pressure as again the copper is soft. Gently start to file the corers - follow the length of the blank and start to smooth the corners. Apply a little pressure and smooth. Use the file to file the edges and top.
watch your fingers - you may accidently over file and hit a finger - best way is to put one of those leather finger guards on or that self sticking material (like 3m vetwrap) on the fingers just to save them from that extra hit by the file
I now use a Foredom Bench Motor to buff off the burs and clean up the copper edges - using a fibre wheel - works wonders and makes the edges crisp and clean
see how nice and smooth and clean the edges are
Take some steel wool I like 0000 but all I could find this week was 000 which will work just fine. Work the edges and surface of the copper. You will notice the steel wool takes any burs and sharp edges off the blank and shines and cleans the surface.
when all finished they are ready for putting the etch resist on
I like to make quite a few up and then start to put the etch resist on
STEP 5 - I will repeat step five below but using StazOn Stamp Pad and Rubber Stamps
Prepare your PnP Etching paper with your design. In my case I have my Zentangle patterns
Put your PnP blue resist- face up on a cutting mat or something similar. Place your blank on the design and cut around it.
You do not have to do it this way - but I find if I have less overhang - I have more control over the resist when applying .
Take some windex and clean one side of the blank. ( you can clean the whole thing but we will do that again later) Try not to put your fingers on the side your going to apply the PnP resist. Oils from your fingers can affect the adhesion
Take your cut out PnP and lay it face down on the cleaned side of the blank.
as you can see I have finger prints on the metal - I would clean with windex or buff again with my steel wool
very little or no overhang. More control on the resist
Some people like to take a sheet of paper or a thin cloth between the iron and the PnP resist
I've done both - I find a sheet of unwaxed wax paper works the best for me it keeps it from melting the plastic and gives a little more control when using the iron. I use the max on the iron (before I was almost at high but found after trial and error that the high worked best with this iron)
What I have is an inexpensive Black and Decker iron that I bought just for this purpose. That way I dont have any build up of iron sprays etc..
Apply the iron and hold down and heat up. I let it sit for about 45 seconds, Go over it for a few minutes. I rub the edges etc... and watch where the holes are in the iron and they may not have enough pressure ifyou just sit it down on the piece. Once complete put to the side to cool
STEP 10- very important
Do not remove PnP resist until it is completely cooled.
Once cooled remove.
The New toy - Heat Press - used for making T-shirts but great for doing multiple quantities at a time of pressing the PnP blue onto the bracelet blank. I got mine from a place local to me for under 300.00
I love using it - I have it down pretty good on time and pressure - max pressure set and then I put sheets of the unwaxed paper on top - the metal tends to not be perfectly flat so there are high and low points. The bottom of the unit is rubber so it does sink in - but the extra paper ensure coverage - so full pressure and about 3 minutes does it.
as you can see in the picture these are the 1" bracelet blanks (6" long) and I could fill this up at least two dozen at a time - the 1/2" at least 4 dozen
If you have applied properly the areas that were black will have transfered to the Blank and be blue. I f there are areas that did not stick you can fix with a sharpie marker, Identi-pen but I like a product called Stop Out. which guarantees me proper resist.
STEP 11 Fixing resist: An easy to apply resist with a pen nib or a brush.- Got this at curry's art supplies they had to order in but it only took a few days. You can also use a sharpie permanent marker to help out if you cant get the Stop Out - evidently the Red Staedler is supposed to be better but either one works just make sure its covered- the marker comes off easier than the stop out for clean up .
At this point we have our blank prepared with our etching resist.
STEP 5 - 11 - USING STAZON STAMP PAD AS A RESIST AND RUBBER STAMPS
If you do not wish to use PnP Blue and it is easier to get these rubber stamp pads at your local craft store, the following will give you a resist and the ability to use rubber stamps to make your bracelet (Pendants etc.)
Stazon is a brand of stamp pad -
When applied to a rubber stamp you can stamp directly onto your clean copper piece
a really good cleaner which I should have mentioned is called Penny Brite
Cleans your copper beautifully with just a little of the penny brite and water. I use a toothbrush on the smooth surface (you can use your fingers) and especially when I am finished to clean out the crevices
I apply the staz on onto the rubber stamp (in this case my rubber zentangle stamps - available on etsy (see side bar on blog) This is a large 8-1/2 x 11 rubber stamp that I can get many patterns from
I place the piece onto the area I want to stamp and apply a little pressure - be sure not to smudge. I place one finger on one end and push slightly down and the other end rises - I grab and lift straight up
This ink dries rather quickly which is nice - here are samples on other types of copper
even copper pipe
see my blog on rolling the copper pipe
STEP 12 Preparing your Ferric Chloride (I am checking out electro etching as well and will put it in this step by step when I actually do it )
Today I change my container to a glass one (that has a lid - its a baking dish that has a plastic cover- but I used plastic wrap to seal it to ensure no evaporation when I store it ) I decided I wanted to try fresh acid and also heat it. To heat it I got out my electric fry pan and put it to warm
They say the heat should not exceed about 135 deg F.
So I Poured my acid into the glass container and turned up to warm on the dial
STEP 13 Apply the packing tape (regular packing tape) to the back of the blank (you are sticking to the side without the resist.) I like using the hand held - then I dont have it sticking to itself while I'm fumbling for scissors or a knife - I put little tabs on the ends so I can grab them when putting into and taking out of the pan. I plan on getting some of that self sticking shelf paper to put onto the backs and use the packing tape to suspend so that my backs do not accidently get etched - also going to try some waxes etc... will let you know here if they work .
Once the tape is on we put it into the ferric chloride face down - you want it just at the surface either just touching or just under the surface to ensure its touching the ferric chloride - but dont let it touch the bottom.
I did four sets (I'll probably get my bigger tray so I can do about 8 at a time.) I did get a bigger tray and now make 8 at a time .
I left it for only 1 hour and checked it becaue this was fresh acid and I was heating - something new (make sure you wear gloves this stuff stains your fingers badly) and sure enough fresh acid and heat had already started the etching process. I ended up leaving for only 2 hours. cut down from 8-9 hours - makes a difference
You can check your process every once in a while to see how far it has etched and depending on what you want you can leave it longer for deeper etch. etc..
When ready - carefully take out of the acid bath and rinse straight away - my sink washed directly to the outside and not into my septic. You will have to figure out how you want to deal with rinsing.
Nice deep etch.. The PnP blue is still on the blank.
To finish the rinsing you must neutralize the acid on the blank -
STEP 16 - remove the PnP blue with Acetone (You can remove the tape glue as well)
You can use paper towel or a rag - rag is better as the etch is going to rip the paper towel as you clean
Cleaning the back
Using Goo Gone will take away all the adhesive from the tape. (acetone will work too)
Let it sit for a minute and the wipe off.
I take my steel wool and start with the back and clean it up and get it back to a shiny finish
Then I work on the front and the sides - if the sides have some sharp edges from etching just take your file and clean up and then the steel wool.
All cleaned up
STEP 19 - options
we can seal or patina now or later - I like later after I have formed the bracelet.
Forming the bracelet
you can use forming pliers or a wood bracelet mandrel and rawhide hammer
I preform with the pliers and then use my oval wooden bracelet mandrel and rawhide hammer to form
But then I got my GRS Forming Tool - I LOVE THIS TOOL
Patina and finishing
I used the Gilders Paste Copper to finish - using a rag apply and make even coat and let dry for an hour
I also used liver of sulphur - gel (was first time I tried it ) was nice to work with - still stinks LOL
in hot water add and mix - add a little ammonia (helps make some nice rainbow colours on the metal)
dip and then clean - I used sandpaper/steel wool to clean up
darkens the deep etched areas and the sandpaper/steel wool lightens the high spots . This you will have work on to your liking
Try Using some coloured Patina's
Finish by buffing and sealing (see gilders paste instructions)
I like the Renaissance wax t - apply a coat to inside and top of bracelet and edges - let dry
I use a dremel with a felt buff and they come up shiny and beautiful
I also make my own wax that is similar to Renaissance wax by using beeswax pellets and naptha (you can get naptha at home depot in a tin) you put pellets into container and pour the naptha over and it melts it. Makes a great sealer for metal.
But I found the BEST BEST Sealer called Permalac EF that I am now using for everything
In Canada they sell at
Sculpture Supply Canada
345 Munster Ave.Toronto, Ontario Canada M8Z 3C6416-234-1075
345 Munster Ave.Toronto, Ontario Canada M8Z 3C6416-234-1075