I like to etch some glass as well
I take the stamp pad that is a resist and stamp onto the dicroic piece I will be fusing
I like the white as I can see it better but any of the Staz on opaque colours will work.
Let dry
then put a covering of etching cream on the piece - this can be tricky as some dichro takes seconds others a minute or two to etch into the dichro.
I didn't get to finish tonight and I might wait till the weekend and I'll enter the next steps and the finished items in this blog
But you can bet I'll be doing some of the zentangle stamps this weekend and etching them onto the Dichro and fusing them. Should be interesting
Starting a Fork Bracelet
I just had to try a couple of bends - love the video was real helpful
Too cold at the studio so I'll wait till the weekend to play further - plus all my polishes that would freeze were in the house
So - to be continued.......
Too cold at the studio so I'll wait till the weekend to play further - plus all my polishes that would freeze were in the house
So - to be continued.......
My Stash of Flatware for Fork & Spoon Jewelery
My stash of an assortment of Forks and Spoons that I have accumulated about 10 years ago with the intent of making fork and spoon jewelery
Making Bracelets- Spoon bending tool
My 1" 18g Copper blanks are on order and should have by Friday to share
I got my How to Make Fork Braceletes DVD today and it had items I knew I would have to do and few cool tips on bending and prepping the bracelet. A great tool it had in the video was a "Spoon Bender" This little item is cool and I ended up buying on Ebay today . Some might think a bit pricy but think its worth it - think about the time to run around and find all the parts and this way its all put together and will work without testing. I think I would spend more in gas and time finding all the right parts -
Here is pic and the link to get one. (or just type spoon bender in ebay) I'm going home to find my stash of forks
(and I know exactly where they are in my studio for a change) I bet I bought them 10 years ago. I'll put up a pic tonight.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPOON-BENDER-Make-Your-Own-Silver-BRACELET-Bead-Gem-Jewelry-Craft-Flatware-Art-/130597994228?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e683f3ef4#ht_500wt_1282
I got my How to Make Fork Braceletes DVD today and it had items I knew I would have to do and few cool tips on bending and prepping the bracelet. A great tool it had in the video was a "Spoon Bender" This little item is cool and I ended up buying on Ebay today . Some might think a bit pricy but think its worth it - think about the time to run around and find all the parts and this way its all put together and will work without testing. I think I would spend more in gas and time finding all the right parts -
Here is pic and the link to get one. (or just type spoon bender in ebay) I'm going home to find my stash of forks
(and I know exactly where they are in my studio for a change) I bet I bought them 10 years ago. I'll put up a pic tonight.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPOON-BENDER-Make-Your-Own-Silver-BRACELET-Bead-Gem-Jewelry-Craft-Flatware-Art-/130597994228?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e683f3ef4#ht_500wt_1282
Copper Bracelet Blanks - for Etching
I picked up my copper bracelet blanks from the metal shop tonight
I had them cut as they only charge 10.00 for shear cutting the sheet for me
so that works out to (10.00/75 each ) about .14 each (well worth my time) as they cut straight and the edges are clean to start with.
So I have 25 x 6" 25 x 6.5" and 25 x 7" giving me a range for small, medium and large bracelets and more than enough to keep me busy over the winter months.
I think the next batch will be 1" or maybe 1.25" wide in the same lengths. I also have a GRS Bracelet Former coming -
Blurb on GRS Bracelet Former
Shapes flat strips of metal to a perfect "C" shape after you’ve engraved your designs.
eatures a soft alloy die seat that supports pressure from the die without distorting your engraving work (die seat can be reformed by heating when necessary).
imple to use: place one end of stock under the die, press down on the handle, and work stock through the former, shaping until you create the desired "C" shape.
Includes two different fixed punches and one adjustable die cavity to form bracelets measuring 0.25"–1.25" in width. Recommended for 0.030"–0.080" thick soft metals such as gold, silver and copper. Made in USA.
Did I mention a company called located in Etobicoke has some items like Rio Grande for Jewelry Making - great place to order from.
I'm falling behind on making and testing items as I'd like to keep my blog going with at least as many as there are days in the month. I'll have to come up with another few before the end of tomorrow.
I had them cut as they only charge 10.00 for shear cutting the sheet for me
so that works out to (10.00/75 each ) about .14 each (well worth my time) as they cut straight and the edges are clean to start with.
So I have 25 x 6" 25 x 6.5" and 25 x 7" giving me a range for small, medium and large bracelets and more than enough to keep me busy over the winter months.
I think the next batch will be 1" or maybe 1.25" wide in the same lengths. I also have a GRS Bracelet Former coming -
Blurb on GRS Bracelet Former
Shapes flat strips of metal to a perfect "C" shape after you’ve engraved your designs.
eatures a soft alloy die seat that supports pressure from the die without distorting your engraving work (die seat can be reformed by heating when necessary).
imple to use: place one end of stock under the die, press down on the handle, and work stock through the former, shaping until you create the desired "C" shape.
Includes two different fixed punches and one adjustable die cavity to form bracelets measuring 0.25"–1.25" in width. Recommended for 0.030"–0.080" thick soft metals such as gold, silver and copper. Made in USA.
Did I mention a company called located in Etobicoke has some items like Rio Grande for Jewelry Making - great place to order from.
I'm falling behind on making and testing items as I'd like to keep my blog going with at least as many as there are days in the month. I'll have to come up with another few before the end of tomorrow.
Fork Bracelet with Dichroic Glass - 1st attempt
Ok- so I have not received my "How to make fork bracletes" DVD yet and I so want to try my hand at making one.
I took a fork and decided I'd give it a try .
Not the nicest (needs some finishing to grind out dents from pliers) but it gave me an idea of how hard it was to bend the tines of the fork, form/bend the handle, played at buffing -finally set up my Foredom bench motor properly with buffs and did some buffing to bring up the shine.
I used one of my fused dicroic pieces. I am somewhat pleased- used a piece of copper pipe to bend the tines down to 90 degree and then used some round nose pliers to turn the ends - now I am really anxious for the DVD to arrive to see what tools and tips to use to easily make a fork bracelet.As you know if you use the right tools and are given some tips - it makes the process easier.
My sisters days of waiting for one may be over !
I took a fork and decided I'd give it a try .
Not the nicest (needs some finishing to grind out dents from pliers) but it gave me an idea of how hard it was to bend the tines of the fork, form/bend the handle, played at buffing -finally set up my Foredom bench motor properly with buffs and did some buffing to bring up the shine.
I used one of my fused dicroic pieces. I am somewhat pleased- used a piece of copper pipe to bend the tines down to 90 degree and then used some round nose pliers to turn the ends - now I am really anxious for the DVD to arrive to see what tools and tips to use to easily make a fork bracelet.As you know if you use the right tools and are given some tips - it makes the process easier.
My sisters days of waiting for one may be over !
More Etched Copper - tree of life and Zentangle
While I was doing my bracelet I also had a few other pieces etching at the same time.
I used the copper coloured Gilders paste to seal them ( I need a new camera to get better images - they look much nicer than they are here - brighter/shinnier)
Close ups
I used the copper coloured Gilders paste to seal them ( I need a new camera to get better images - they look much nicer than they are here - brighter/shinnier)
Close ups
Zentangle Etched Copper Cuff - Tester
Here is finished bracelet - I get to keep as its not perfect I was quick to cut and etch so its not perfect (its the only way I get to keep something)
How I made it :
My order of copper sheet has not come as yet but I did have some copper in the studio ( I have a lot of copper in the studio - probably didn't need to order)
Its 18g but its 6" x 12" which means I need to cut it.
I measured out the length I wanted - 6-1/2" x 2 " (used a metal pin to score the metal - nail will do as well) and I cut using a small metal shear (I have no idea where I bought but I bought it in the USA when I lived there 7 years ago) just google metal shear - they run under 200.00 but well worth it when cutting straight pieces of metal. And I hate cutting with a hand saw.
I took the piece and trimmed the corners (nipped the corners off with metal hand shears) then used a file to file down the edges and round out the corners.
I then traced out the shape and cut my PnP zentangle sheet. I cleaned the copper piece with 0000 steel wool and cleaned that with windex after (keeping my fingers off the surface) I then ironed on the PnP zentangle pattern to the metal. Let it cool and then took the PnP plastic off. I had a couple of areas I touched up using the StopOut I mentioned in one of my earlier posts to touch up any spots that had missing resist.
I put packing tape on the back of the metal piece and made sure it was secure and then suspended it into the Ferric Chloride (just suspend on the surface)
Left it for about 8 hours (my solution is weakening and I'm not using heat - but I had all day )
Took out of etch and washed off (make sure you wear gloves it stains the hands) neutralized with baking soda.
Took goo gone to the back to clean off the sticky residue from the tape and then used acetone to clean off the PnP blue from the front.
So now its cleaned up and I need to bend - I have bracelet forming pliers (but I want to find something that will bend even easier and I've got a Cindy's bracelet bender coming) but these worked well
Once formed I can apply the finish (I didnt not want to 'bite' into the finish when I was forming) pre finish - bent
finished with bronze gilders paste (seals the metal and colors it. I did dap the back with a texture hammer.
Both sides I did with the gilders paste.
How I made it :
My order of copper sheet has not come as yet but I did have some copper in the studio ( I have a lot of copper in the studio - probably didn't need to order)
Its 18g but its 6" x 12" which means I need to cut it.
I measured out the length I wanted - 6-1/2" x 2 " (used a metal pin to score the metal - nail will do as well) and I cut using a small metal shear (I have no idea where I bought but I bought it in the USA when I lived there 7 years ago) just google metal shear - they run under 200.00 but well worth it when cutting straight pieces of metal. And I hate cutting with a hand saw.
I took the piece and trimmed the corners (nipped the corners off with metal hand shears) then used a file to file down the edges and round out the corners.
I then traced out the shape and cut my PnP zentangle sheet. I cleaned the copper piece with 0000 steel wool and cleaned that with windex after (keeping my fingers off the surface) I then ironed on the PnP zentangle pattern to the metal. Let it cool and then took the PnP plastic off. I had a couple of areas I touched up using the StopOut I mentioned in one of my earlier posts to touch up any spots that had missing resist.
I put packing tape on the back of the metal piece and made sure it was secure and then suspended it into the Ferric Chloride (just suspend on the surface)
Left it for about 8 hours (my solution is weakening and I'm not using heat - but I had all day )
Took out of etch and washed off (make sure you wear gloves it stains the hands) neutralized with baking soda.
Took goo gone to the back to clean off the sticky residue from the tape and then used acetone to clean off the PnP blue from the front.
So now its cleaned up and I need to bend - I have bracelet forming pliers (but I want to find something that will bend even easier and I've got a Cindy's bracelet bender coming) but these worked well
Once formed I can apply the finish (I didnt not want to 'bite' into the finish when I was forming) pre finish - bent
finished with bronze gilders paste (seals the metal and colors it. I did dap the back with a texture hammer.
Both sides I did with the gilders paste.
Copper Zentangle Etched Cuff Bracelets
I've ordered my 18g sheet and hope to have for next week so I can start making some etched zentangle copper cuffs as Christmas presents. Over the years (at least 12) I've always wanted to do Fork and Spoon bracelets using my dicroic glass cabs and I ordered a DVD on it - so will be interested to see how to finally make them. I bought a lot of old silverware for the task and its just been sitting. Site where I got the dvd:
http://www.makingforkbracelets.com/
My sister was with me when we first saw them at a craft show in Avalon/Stone Harbour one summer and has asked every Christmas since - were's my bracelet. So setting up some projects to do before Christmas. At Christmas I have 9 glorious days off of which 7 are for playing. So looking forward to this.
http://www.makingforkbracelets.com/
My sister was with me when we first saw them at a craft show in Avalon/Stone Harbour one summer and has asked every Christmas since - were's my bracelet. So setting up some projects to do before Christmas. At Christmas I have 9 glorious days off of which 7 are for playing. So looking forward to this.
More copper etched Zentangle and other items - Fixing resists
I've only had time to do a few new items with etching
More zentangle - and another tree of life
Have not had much time and its colder at the studio these days - just moving items that will freeze into the house and then work inside during the winter. (I hope)
Once the items are etched and I have washed the ferric chloride off and removed them from the tape - I neutralize them and wash again. (wear gloves or you end up with discoloured finger tips )
The PnP Blue is still on the pieces -
I use some acetone and a paper towel and wipe the blue off
at this point you decide how to seal
I've used my resin to seal that nice bright copper color
but there is also Gilders Paste - its a wax that you can get in various colors. you apply and buff
(I have to check something out about making my own as I have used my own mix that I take beeswax pellets and acetone and mix and create a soft wax and have used on my pieces in the past - now I am wondering if I can use some colors to mix into it like metallics etc.. - another day)
Using the paste wax you seal your pieces
More zentangle - and another tree of life
Have not had much time and its colder at the studio these days - just moving items that will freeze into the house and then work inside during the winter. (I hope)
Once the items are etched and I have washed the ferric chloride off and removed them from the tape - I neutralize them and wash again. (wear gloves or you end up with discoloured finger tips )
The PnP Blue is still on the pieces -
I use some acetone and a paper towel and wipe the blue off
at this point you decide how to seal
I've used my resin to seal that nice bright copper color
but there is also Gilders Paste - its a wax that you can get in various colors. you apply and buff
(I have to check something out about making my own as I have used my own mix that I take beeswax pellets and acetone and mix and create a soft wax and have used on my pieces in the past - now I am wondering if I can use some colors to mix into it like metallics etc.. - another day)
Using the paste wax you seal your pieces
I did mention I would let you know how I deal with imperfect resists - where the PnP did not stick, spots that did not adhere etc..
I use a product called Stop Out - got it at curry's art supplies - they will order it in for you. You can use a brush or even an ink nib to draw or touch up your pieces. Lots of uses. Acetone clean up.
Here are a couple I fixed for future etching- You don't have to be neat - if you go over line you can scratch off.
Zentangle Pattern #1 - at Etsy
I now have both patterns up on Etsy if you type Zentangle Rubber they will come up
Already sold 5 of each before I even got them up on Etsy so I could only post 15
Now Available on Etsy Pattern # 1
Already sold 5 of each before I even got them up on Etsy so I could only post 15
Now Available on Etsy Pattern # 1
Etched Copper and Chain Maille Necklace
So I wanted to check out the etched copper with a Byzantine Chain Maille Necklace I had made
Going to be making more of these - The Ringinator is going to get a workout soon and I'll be etching more copper as I go along - building up for the spring ! But now that I actually posted to Etsy maybe I"ll be selling more on line items.
The Pattern #2 is up on Etsy for 23.00 plus tax and shipping (tax only applies to Ontario Residents)
Evidently takes a few hours to process but eventually you should be able to find if you type
Zentangle Unmounted Rubber stamp - I hope !
I accidently deleted my pic of the the #1 pattern so it will have to wait till tonight to get listed
NEW shipment of Zentangle unmounted Rubber STamps
Just got the new shipment in
Will be posting them on Etsy tonight - only 20 of each pattern available - 23.00 plus shipping Cdn. and I know at least 10 people who want them so I hope they last a week or so -
Will be posting them on Etsy tonight - only 20 of each pattern available - 23.00 plus shipping Cdn. and I know at least 10 people who want them so I hope they last a week or so -
Etched Copper Zentangle Pendant - sealed with Resin
Forgot about this item - dry now and looks great
Sealed the copper at its brightest and will not tarnish - used a foam brush to applied to both sides and set it in the trivets that touched the sides only. I love the reticulation from the etching.
Sealed the copper at its brightest and will not tarnish - used a foam brush to applied to both sides and set it in the trivets that touched the sides only. I love the reticulation from the etching.
More- etched copper with PnP Circuit Board Transfer Film
I did etch more items on the weekend but I just cleaned the PnP blue off tonight before really cleaning them up
You can rub and scrub it off with steel wool but its easier if you use a paint thinner - in my case I used some acetone I have for other reasons. Got it at Home Depot
These items are just cleaned with the acetone for now and then I will clean them up before I use them
The PnP gives a really nice crisp line I can count on when etching.
You can rub and scrub it off with steel wool but its easier if you use a paint thinner - in my case I used some acetone I have for other reasons. Got it at Home Depot
These items are just cleaned with the acetone for now and then I will clean them up before I use them
The PnP gives a really nice crisp line I can count on when etching.
Reverse Zentangle texture stamp for clay
I rolled out some clay the other day when I was making my hearts and connectors - was just playing to see samples of the unmounted rubber stamp on clay.
Decided I wanted a reverse stamp /texture plate - can do this with polymer clay as well.
I rolled it out and stamped the whole sheet - I did not watch as closely as I should have while drying so its not perfectly flat - but I can stamp from various sections. plus I want to use it as a mold for firing glass - I'll coat it with primer etc... but I'm ahead of myself (the brain just keeps on trying for new ideas to use this for)
Here is the bisque reverse texture stamp for clay or for molding glass ( I will make shapes and put on top and let them melt - of course you have to use a primer like Primo to ensure it does not stick ) so should be doing that soon- will have to use my bigger fusing kiln as this is 8-1/2 x 11 in size and I can place a lot of pieces on the one sheet for fusing on - There is also the glass clay I have that I may finally use for something.
Decided I wanted a reverse stamp /texture plate - can do this with polymer clay as well.
I rolled it out and stamped the whole sheet - I did not watch as closely as I should have while drying so its not perfectly flat - but I can stamp from various sections. plus I want to use it as a mold for firing glass - I'll coat it with primer etc... but I'm ahead of myself (the brain just keeps on trying for new ideas to use this for)
Here is the bisque reverse texture stamp for clay or for molding glass ( I will make shapes and put on top and let them melt - of course you have to use a primer like Primo to ensure it does not stick ) so should be doing that soon- will have to use my bigger fusing kiln as this is 8-1/2 x 11 in size and I can place a lot of pieces on the one sheet for fusing on - There is also the glass clay I have that I may finally use for something.
From Full Sheet Unmounted Zentangle Rubber Stamp - Bisque Hearts, Connectors
Fresh from the kiln - Bisque hearts and Connectors made from my unmounted zentangle rubber stamp.
Close ups to see nice detail - will try various colours and effects rather than just black and white this time.
Close ups to see nice detail - will try various colours and effects rather than just black and white this time.
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