Using my home made rubber stamp for butterfly wings on dichro

I finally found my staz on stamp pad and got out my rubber stamp that I made

I want to stamp onto my dichro and then etch it

so far stamped

I will let dry and then cut down so I dont waste much of the dichro and I can use the scrap elsewhere 

I have to find my etching materials  then I can see how it will come out 

I want a lot of the dichro to show through but think that my dots a bit close  - but we will see 

WISHING EVERYONE A MERRY CHRISTMAS

Merry Christmas Everyone !

Still playing with Theresa Collins stamp maker

I thought I would give another try to the stamp maker as it goes so quickly and time over the next few days is slim to none.   I have updated the tutorial but I thought I would do a separate note just to show what I did today.

I took the negative and a sharpie and made my lines thicker ( the open space for the larger areas was letting more light in and the lines did not come out as thick as I would like in the stamp so this was a quick fix )

I went through the process and got a really good stamp

Now this was my second try- cant wait to try it out and prep some glass for etching and cutting 

On the first try I thought I remembered the times 

READ THE INSTRUCTIONS 

On the first try I exposed the back for 30 seconds instead of 3 seconds and the front the 3 minutes 

what I got was an almost exposed stamp 

very minimal impression - you can still see it but it was nearly all solid stamp 

On the second that worked out well I still must have not given it the right amount but it all worked

the 3 seconds are supposed to  be a flash exposure  to give a thin background to the stamp 

It worked but you can see some areas that the backing of the film that the stamp material sticks too shows through (shiny) 

Making your own Custom Rubber Stamps with the Theresa Collins Stamp Maker

Using the Theresa Collins Stamp Maker
Rev Date:  Dec. 23, 2012

Goal - make my own stamps easily

History:  I have made my own stamps in the past - had to make my own magnetic frames to hold the liquid polymer  which was not too bad once I had them all set up - three sizes - small, med and large and created an area that I had uv lights set up - This came in small bottles that you pour and then expose to the uv lights.

http://www.granthams.com/page2.html
I have a lot left  ( bought the big box shown above ) so with the little exposure unit I might use it up as well

Step 1
The first thing you have to do is prepare your artwork
I used photoshop  - I created my wing  - A right and left -   you only have to create one and then mirror it
because I want more dichro to show through I want the white areas to be the actual stamp that will leave the resist. .

 I consolidated them onto one image and saved . 

 I thought if I do two on the image I dont waste space on the stamp - then I can cut my dichro as a square and stamp two wings at a time

 I installed software that came with the kit that sizes it properly for the  kit frame to process  - There are three sizes A6,  A7, A8  (this is a european product so the weird sizing)   - being Small Medium and Large- which is great - you get three sizes to choose from- from one image .  Medium is perfect for my pendants (just under 2") and the small is perfect for my earrings I want to make. I did have to go back and forth with photoshop till I had the placement of the image just right.

Its says you should use an inkjet but I have found I like the toner better and in my past work found something that makes your acetates using toner black and non transparent. (I list this below)

For my first run I chose the medium  size image and printed it onto the acetate sheet  (A7) -

I tilted it so you can see a bit through the black and you need really solid black so the light does not permeate the film and harden the resin.

To ensure a solid black background and lines I use something called  Casey's Ultra Black

I used this with regular acetate (which I will try with these as well later ) for my screen printing when I used to burn screens for glass silk screening 

makes the toner blacker and ensure there are no white spots . The image came out beautifully. You see a solid black background and really black defined lines

dries in minutes  (this shows the image trimmed to size )  I sprayed when it was a full sheet (so I wasted some acetate)  but next time I'll trim down and spray the smaller piece only 

Why do you need a black background:  the purpose is so the uv light only hardens the material that is in the clear areas - so your mindset is that anything that is not black will harden - anyting under the black will stay liquid.

I followed the instructions
I got out the frame and opened it up

Therse frames have magnets to keep them together while processing 

I places image ink side up in a well/depression in one of the frames

place a sachet (stamp) with printing face up (so much easier - no mixing or leaking, or mess ) ,

Picture to follow

 put on the cover (magnetic tray),

Picture to follow

pushed a bit on the top to ensure sache pushed to edges (in my case it did not care as my image was all center and the edges were going to be washed away )

turned on the exposure unit -

Placed tray face up as assembled into the exposer unit  for 3 seconds,

then flipped  over for 3 minutes

turned off unit, pulled tray out  opened tray,

taking the sache out and putting the acetate image and tray to the side - I  trimmed the edges of the sache with scissors, peeled the loose plastic top away (was a bit messy as the area that was covered with the black background was still liquid) ,

applied dish soap to the sache and used the little brush to wash away the material.  Was pretty easy

Once I finished cleaning - it was still sort of pink (the color of the sache)   I put in a little water  tray (provided) with 1/4" of water and turned on exposure unit and left it face up for 2 minutes

- took out and dried.

I really had no negative things to say about the kit other than the little plastic water  tray was broken  but I can go to the dollar store and find something that will work - so no end of the world problems

I think I need to make the lines on the wing thicker as they are there in the stamp but really not too deep -

I'll have to do a stamping test to see if I really need to change it -   but that will follow - I'll update this as I go along

I took my negative and a sharpie and made the lines on wings to make them wider so that I could get a better definition

Looks thick but because all around is more open than the smaller areas the light shines through more so  I wanted a more defined line - bust as always play and test 

The results were amazing and very happy with them - the thicker line was the way to go  was more defined so that when I stamp I'll get more resist onto the dicro with a more defined line for etching.

Stampmaker -My new toy has arrived

It came in the mail yesterday - I have not  had a chance to open or read the instructions as yet
I got as far as taking it out of its  plain brown shipping box - lovely presentation box.

I want to sit and read what I need to do and then make my own stamp - the one I really want is a butterfly wing for stamping resist onto my dichro wings ,  so I'll do a step by step so everyone can see how easy it will be to make your own stamps
I cant wait to start .

Waiting for Stampmaker

Just waiting for my  Teresa Collins Stampmaker  to come - this is one I stayed up all night to get 50% off and there happened to be a glitch  - but I did get one - should be coming any time as I think they shipped on Dec 8  -   so now I want to think about what patterns to make - I did by some of the daylight packs with the intent of making butterfly wings for stamping on my dichro for etching to make it easier as I do them by hand

right now typing without a splint and boy does it hurt but if I dont use it the wrist is never going to be better

Playing with Big Kick

I still cant do too much with my hand but I keep trying to use it - especially scissors are hard

I brought the big kick back into the house  

to try out since my copper was sitting and starring me in the eye on the kitchen table

I cut a strip of copper (no wider than the pattern folders

  and drew a couple of hearts free hand

 and used some basic fiskars scissors


rather than the metal shears (which can be used as well)   and they worked just fine on the 24g - My hand was not too  bad at all - hurt alittle but the more I do the better it will get - need to get the muscles back into shape

following the instructions (which are quite simple and very clearly written on the actual machine base) I was able to run them through

I am very impressed with the impressions made - this is not etching but embossing the metal 

very fun and simple 

the 24g is really  good to work with - I like the ability to cut the metal easily with scissors 

I dont have the dapping block in the house and I may take a trip up just to do them and give them some 3d effect but other wise this is a good tool that I have added to my workshop  and would recommend it  

the pricing is reasonable for the big kick  and the patterns you can collect one at a time 

I have certain ones and want to get a few more that I have my eye on but the actual store did not have them so I'll have to order on line 

I want to try even thinner foils with this  such as aluminum and brass (you can get these at the craft store ) 

unfortunately being sick and broken wrist have halted me bringing in stuff to work with in the house during the winter (I at least got my liquids that would freeze into the house )  

I want to work more with this equipment 

Craft Store Crawl - Feel Like crawling

Wow - I am tired - wiped out from my travels today

Had to get gas

stop at my local co-op for rabbit food

then  I hit Tuckers Pottery  by 9am and picked up some glazes and clay as I want to make some beads and pendants.

Then hit BeadFx and dropped off some copper sheet for a friend to pick up and grabbed one of the vintag folders  and a few other things.

Then I made it to Tandy leather where I grabbed a couple of items - (those cool punches )
 bit did not get the conchos with gears  - they had moving parts and if I wanted to use my silicone molding material it would get stuck so I held off - but found three designs I really liked (use the silcone and then when metal clay or clay is dry cut out centers) good sizes for pendant and earrings
1"   1.5" 1.5 x 7/8"
then I could put a bead or glass center in

from Tandy I was off to Lee Valley - where it was packed and I really didnt see anything I wanted - but I have to check out classes for more pen turning

by this time it was 12:30 and decided to go to Lonestar for lunch

after lunch I went to Desserres  where I was able to pick up a few craft things for my older granddaughter for christmas

then I ended my day by visiting Macmillan orchards (frozen foods)  and then made my way home  (hour drive)

Of course once home I had to bring everything in and collapse

Weekend Craft Store Crawl -

This weekend - my wrists is not too bad so I am going to do a craft store crawl  -

The first place I have to get to is

Tuckers Pottery - I want to see and pick up a few more glazes as I want to do some ceramic pieces up before the spring and they are only open from 9-noon on Saturday

http://www.tuckerspottery.com/tkps/index.php

I love going there - they have cool stuff and kilns to look at

The second place is Tandy Leather 

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.ca/en-cad/home/home.aspx

I found this a couple of years ago - I love picking up a few more stamps (I use these on my glass as well as leather)  they have cool conchos to buy
looking at these ones to pick up (you can buy online but I like once in a while for the touchy feely trip)

Looking at this geometric stamp set
 looks really cool
If you have never done leather - its pretty easy - for stamping  - I took a class at the shop and they have some great videos on line to follow as well.

Then I need to go to BeadFX - to get some of those Vintaj folders for my bigkick  and to drop off some metal for a friend to pick up

I may go to Micheals

and to the new franchise that just showed up in my area called Deserres

http://www.deserres.ca/en-ca/?r=3&gclid=CIOwm9Xj9rMCFUZgMgodDEMAGw

and possibly Cuirry's if I have time

Metal Embossing Plates

While searching for wire I came across my book of embossing plates (stencils)  (they have been lying in a box for 7 years with the wire and a few other things I forgot I had -(a lot of stencil making materials )  - I am organized - I just cant remember where I put them -    these are typically for embossing paper but wondered if I could use them to emboss copper -  since they are as thick as paper I should be able to roll them through the rolling mill just like the paper patterns - I have yet to come across pics on the internet of them in use that way - but then  I havn't googled much on it as yet . When I shop I come across these every once in a while on sale and grab them - and I found that one of those dollar store photo albums holds them quite well - since its so cold it may have to wait til spring - but I put the book of embossing plates somewhere I would find them when I want them this time

Step by Step Wire Necklaces

Revision Date:   Nov. 24, 2012



Will update as I go along

Materials you will need
26 g Wire - for use with the beads- I am using Nickel Silver

 now you do not have to use this - you can use any 26g wire 

I chose nickel silver for economy, that it does not tarnish as much as silver and was easy to get in large spools.  26g as it is thin enough to go through most of the standard pressed bead holes.

14 g Wire - for base collar

14g Nickel Silver 

Yes I ordered waaaaaaaaay too much  but hey you never know when you want to make a 1000 necklaces 

I also find if I order larger quantities it eventually saves on shipping (I think somewhere around 2019 I'll break even ) 

I got the wire from R. J. Leahy

http://www.rjleahy.com/Store/wire/kwi.htm

You can use Artistic Wire as well - I just find it a bit softer but will work just as well and most have this in their craft stock 

You can use any wire you wish - silver, copper, brass to give various effects 

Dowels or Knitting Needles -  fairly large -  or maybe even a couple of pens can work -

You want something round - that is not going to break as you twist the wire 

Your end result will be a piece of twisted 14g wire approx 18" long-  one end with a loop

 and the other with two loose ends - one that you make a hook and one that you can design an open swirl  

so that when you put it together the hook connects to the loop and the swirl hangs below. 

 This is your tBASE to work on 

STEP 1 - BASE

Cut approx  3.5 ft of  14g nickel silver wire (if you have too much you can cut down and adjust - depending upon how big you need it ) 

fold in half over first dowel 

then just wrap the ends over the second dowel  (you dont have to do but one wrap) and I alternate - one going one way - one going the other 

you dont have to be exact as we will be modifying the ends 

Hold the dowel with the loop in your hands and stand on the second dowel

start twisting.(one direction only )   twist,  twist  till you get an even twist from top to bottom  - the dowel tends to untwist when you stop so let go and see if it becomes too loose and then tighten up till your satisfied.

take out the top dowel and you have your loop end 

take out the bottom dowel - these end looks fuggly and we will fix these but its time to measure 

I like to just bring it around my neck and judge where I want to have the center fall -  then I will cut back and make my hook and swirl. Here is where you judge for longer, shorter, tighter etc. 

Here we finesse the wire ends 

make sure you round out your necklace around your neck to see where  they join - this  helps in the end process 

sometimes I see one end  looks more like the hook or one end is longer and is best for the swirl

trim and curve for the hook and hook it into the loop - there should be enough tension to pull and keep it sort of tight (we can work more on it later)  

take the long end and create your swirl 

we now have our base 

(try different lengths for different effect of where its going to lay around your neck 

STEP 2 - ADDING THE BEADS 

Cut a piece of your 26g approx 3 ft - This I can control and is easier to work with but that is up to you.

I like to attache one end first before I start adding my beads so they do not fall off the end or if I pull the wire from the table all the beads fall off (yup it happened) 

So just take one end and do a simple wrap  starting around the loop end

Here may be the hardest part of all - choosing your beads and colors 

sometimes I start with all the same bead  - like leaves and wrap all around 

then second wrap will be next bead - like flowers and work them between the leaves 

then add other mixes etc... till its full 

My bead bag 

I like the dagger type , leaves, drops  and the little pressed flowers

feed your beads onto the wire - you dont have to fill the wire - just a few inches at a time 

the process is put bead to base - wrap wire to front, bring wire up 

bead to base wrap wire behind and then  to front of new bead

bead to base wrap wire behind and then to front of new bead

you continue till you fill your first layer - sort of a backgrouind and then we add more beads 

try not to kink your wire - be carefull of the loose end as you flip it around and can poke you ( might want to wear your safety glasses 

more to come